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Natural bonsai styling isn’t about neglect or randomness. It’s about observing how trees grow in the wild—how they bend with the wind, stretch toward the light, and adapt to their environment. This style celebrates the tree’s individuality rather than imposing a rigid ideal.

Pitcher Plant and Pearly Everlasting at the Portland Japanese Garden

Getting to know David Nguy over the years has been a pleasure. The first time we had a chance to talk at length was on a trip to Japan about eight years ago. He invited me to his garden that day, and I’d been looking forward to seeing it ever since.

In May of 2025 I was in Australia to present at their National Bonsai Convention. It was held in Canberra on the grounds of the National Arboretum.

Mid-summer can be a great time to work on deciduous bonsai. If you have 2 or 3 months left in the growing season it’s not too late.

On mountaintops the snow can be deep and last into the summer. If branches on trees are brought down they may stay there for months, buried in snow, next to the trunks like bird wings. Some may even be pinned to the ground. Over time, year after year with repeated downward flexing, the wood sets this way. Just like it does when wired. Photo by Jonna Saari.

I drew a lot of inspiration from my visit to Tom Vuong’s bonsai garden. It wasn’t just the trees, but the way he handled them.

This photo is in a retirement home in Wisconsin that I frequent. My mother lives there. The complex is so huge that I often forget which hallway it is on, but when I do find it I stand in front of it as if viewing a painting in a museum.

This week’s tutorial dives into one of the most foundational—and often overlooked—aspects of bonsai artistry: the nebari, or surface roots.

The major season of work on Satsuki azalea is after blooming. Remaining flowers are removed. The ovaries are cut off. And the shoots are selected, shortened, and the leaves reduced to 2, a technique known as fishtail.